Some days
I look around at vacation photos and the mementos I have collected thus far and
I wish I could scoop them all up in my arms and hug them. They are my constant
reminders that I have seen some of the things on my very long bucket list.
While I hold some of those journeys closer to my heart than others, each trip,
milestone, object, is just one piece of the puzzle that creates the life I live.
Thus each trip is worthy of some individual attention. Today it is Savannah
Georgia’s turn.
I have
wanted to visit Savannah just as badly as I wanted to visit any other southern
part of the U.S. I knew Paula Deen had a restaurant there and I dreamed of
going. I knew it was a hub of history and that was a big draw too. But mostly I
wanted to go to say that I have been in Georgia at least one time in my life.
Last June, I got my chance.
I was
looking to go away someplace, anyplace, because I hadn’t traveled (especially
on a plane) in well over a year at that point. A sale on airfare set my plans
towards Savannah and I didn’t look back. I was so excited. It was literally
part of my lifetime dream coming true.
I would
only be in Savannah for three days so I knew ahead of time we would be constantly
on the move. I knew my itinerary was really ambitious but thought a good deal
of it would be doable. That was until I got there.
On day
one we hit the ground running. Actually I hit the ground sweating and I didn’t
stop until I was back in New York for more than a day. But I forged ahead. We
arrived at our hotel in no time at all (http://thequeenoff-ckingeverything.blogspot.com/2014/09/for-hotels-youre-home-away-from-home_16.html)
and it was pleasant enough. Though as you will know from reading about my hotel
series blog it was a little underwhelming and stuffy. I had a so-so feeling
about it. In a quick few minutes we were on our way.
We headed
towards the free bus that takes you all around the city center. I had planned
on using this extensively during our weekend but the times and the crowds
prevented this even though it was helpful those few times I did get on.
Apparently
for our first stop we wanted to go to Ellis Square. Savannah is made up of
twenty-four squares and they create an original landscape when you are walking
around. Each has some historical significance, statute or memorial, and when
you are done it is a nice spot to sit for a few minutes. I liked these squares
although I had pictured the entire city differently. I don’t know what I was
thinking. All I knew was that I was having a girl’s weekend and I was going to
enjoy myself.
Ellis
Square turned out to be my favorite square and it was the very first one I saw.
It is right outside of City Market. We were going to grab a quick bite before a
tour but we ended up spending most of the afternoon there. It was completely
charming swarmed with little stores and restaurants. Right off the bat I saw
two stores from my list that I didn’t even realize when I was planning would be
so close.
For lunch
we ended up choosing just the perfect place; the Café at City Market. With
Marilyn Monroe blowing kisses at the entry way I knew we were in the right
spot. It was fairly crowded but we got a great table in the back near the large
fan. That was perfection for me. I ordered a mini pizza but I didn’t have time
to wait for it to arrive. I left my friends to eat and drink while I literally
ran down the block to catch the last tour of the day at the First African
Baptist Church.
Those of
you who watch the Real Housewives of Atlanta will recognize this as the place
where the descendent of Pastor Williams, granddaughter Portia thought had an
actually train underneath! I guess she missed that day in the second grade when
the rest of us learned about the Underground Railroad. I am still pissed she is
that dumb for all of us to see. Especially since her family was instrumental in
that movement.
Now that
I have said my piece about her, being there I can’t imagine she acted like
that. From the moment you are inside you can feel the energy. You know you are
in the presence of a precious place in time and space.
The First
African Baptist Church is the oldest black church in the country and has
existed since 1777. This tour is
something I have dreamt about doing forever. Seriously it was the major reason,
I have come to Savannah. To say this church played a role in the civil rights
movement is an understatement. As
I mentioned before it has a similar look and feel as the Plymouth Church in
Brooklyn (http://thequeenoff-ckingeverything.blogspot.com/2015/02/for-my-continued-path-on-underground.html).
I climbed upstairs to see the original organ and see the carvings created by
the slaves who built it and their initials that had stood the test of time. The
ceiling had a very specific pattern on it known as a “Nine Patch Quilts”. It
was a sign for those traveling to freedom that this was a safe haven. Every aspect of this building was for
the use of those in need of prayer and help to safety. I cannot think of a
better use of religion.
Not only
it this church gorgeous and very much a fixture of Savannah now, the history
never leaves your mind for more than a minute. This couldn’t have been more
true that when we finally made our way downstairs to the basement. There they
had some of the very first pews (more delicate than the ones inside the chapel)
which were to be displayed only. But the part that moved me the most was of
course the reason I was there at all, to see the holes in the floor. I can’t
believe how many there are. They were used so that those traveling and hiding
underground could breathe. It is one thing to think about but quite another to
see. There are NO words just emotions rushing to the surface. I couldn’t stop
staring at them or touching them. They are forever imbedded in my mind. I
noticed that the holes were in a pattern, sort of like a hexagon. I learned
that they are called Congolese Cosmogram after an African prayer meaning “Flash
of Spirits”. And that is exactly
what remains.
Unlike
Plymouth Church in Brooklyn which had an entire floor and attic with their
archives, sadly the First African Baptist Church have no such history. Those
who took this journey have left only their mark through our souls.
After
such an emotional and wonderful experience I went back to the Café. It turns
out that my waitress was keeping my food warm for me until I came back. Talk
about Southern hospitality.
Now that
we were all full it was time to shop for the important stuff; cookies and
candy. At City Market there are two stores that are a must, one is Bryd Cookies
and the other is the Savannah Candy Kitchen. When you enter Bryd’s it’s like
you have died and gone to cookie heaven. No, really. There is such variety in
the kinds and sizes they sell. The packaging, design of the store, and the
smell all create an environment where you will walk away wishing you could stay
there forever. I tried their peach and their infamous
Scotch
oatmeal flavors. Let me tell you when something is as famous as those cookies
you know they are good. Mine did make it out of Savannah but sadly not a whole
week in Brooklyn. I know I will be ordering some for myself soon.
From
there we crossed the path to the Savannah Candy Kitchen. It was the closest
thing to Will Wonka’s factory I have seen. For every kind of candy they made
there were a hundred varieties you didn’t even know you wanted. There was the
fudge, chocolates, candy apples, popcorn, pralines, cookies, and countless more
goodies. This place was packed. It was like we had never seen candy before or
since. There was another location on River Street that I am sure was just as
popular. It didn’t matter your age there was candy from your generation,
childhood, and the ones you will dream of in the future.
After we
bought up everything we could carry and then some it was back to the hotel to
freshen up for dinner. By this point I was beat since we had been traveling
since the wee hours in the morning. I was beyond sweating so a nice cold shower
and change of clothes was exciting. It was also exciting because I had this
dinner reservation made as soon as I booked my airfare. We were going to see
Paula Deen!
For the
purposes of full disclosure we didn’t actually see the matron of this
restaurant but I did get a picture with her cutout. The Lady and Sons opened in
their current location in 1996 but had two prior businesses that helped pave
their way. This restaurant is still family run by Paula Deen and her sons. Her
brother used to have a restaurant as well, known as “Uncle Bubba’s “ but that
suddenly closed down in April 2014. I had planned on going but with this option
no longer available it freed some time in my schedule.
When we
pulled up the line was out of the door. We had reservations and still had to
wait about an hour to be seated. This did not make me a happy camper. However
the place smelled amazing and they had probably one of the best gift shops I had
ever seen. Seriously, anything you could think of and then some was there. I was able to buy butter chapstick!!
Believe me it’s something you didn’t even know you needed. Shopping kept me
occupied and before I knew it we were in.
We were
all so excited and having a hard time deciding what to eat. The infamous fried
chicken was only offered via a buffet and I didn’t really want that. So two of
us went with another specialty; the chicken pot pie, and the other two
(ironically sitting across from us) had the chicken fried steak.
The food
was piping hot but I managed to take a bite right away. The first thing I
noticed was the crust. I am using that term loosely. It was more like the
lightest, greasiest (but in a good way) biscuit you have ever seen
crisscrossing the top. The rich cream that engulfed the chicken and vegetables
was literally the best thing I ever tasted, for exactly five bites. After that
you think you might die and cannot even comprehend another bite. You feel like
you are weighed down with lead. I guess lard will do that to you. My companions
with the steak were thrilled with theirs as it was a more reasonable meal
choice, less grease, no biscuit topping.
I was
glad to had been there and done that. And as Paula says “We send y'all love and
best dishes, from our kitchen to yours!”
Finally
we brought the day to a close by bringing out the “girls”. Those of you who are
fans, like me, of “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil” will realize that
much of what I did, like most tourists; have a connection with events from this
book. This final item on our itinerary brought us to Club One where we are
going to see the drag show of all drag shows and meet Lady Chablis.
Lady
Chablis is a central part of that book and of Savannah itself. This town
doesn’t have the kind of night life you would expect. It is fairly quiet
despite those in the mood for drinking and having some fun. Club One where the Lady
and her friends perform and was the spot to be at. It was one of the funniest
and most entertaining shows I have ever seen. Half of the time I was jealous of
their bodies and the other half of their self-esteem for being able to do this
with a “straight” face.
I took
some photos but they came out really dark. This is the Lady a few years ago.
After the
Lady did her thing it was time to meet the other girls. They all had a
signature look and songs from pop culture. It was kind of like karaoke with a
flair for the dramatic. We had a great time. It was definitely worth a visit.
This was
just a little sampling of what makes Savannah, well Savannah.
For More
Information:
Up next:
For “Hard
Hearted Hannah the Vamp of Savannah GA”
Day 2
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